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Care For The Maturing Skin

July 5th, 2007

Q Why does skin age so visibly?

A Skin aging is a natural and continuous process and our biological clock marks its time on our skin. How fast the signs will show is essentially dependent on our genetic factors or what doctors refer to as internal or intrinsic factors, which we have no control over, as well as on external or extrinsic factors, mainly because of sun damage. It begins in our mid 20’s. Within the skin, collagen production slows and elastin, the substance that enables the skin to snap back into place, has a bit less spring. There is loss of volume owing to changes of fat and lipids which comprise the structure of the skin. Dead skin cells do not shed as quickly and the turnover of new skin cells may decrease slightly, this creates the appearance of a dry, less radiant complexion as compared to our youth. But the visible signs of aging may take some years to show.

What we can cope with are the external or extrinsic factors. Sun damage owing to too much exposure to the sun’s UV radiation is the number one cause of’ premature aging. Dermatologists call it Photoaging. The environment plays havoc when the skin is unprotected and a comparison between the skin on the face, arms, hands and legs which are exposed, with the areas which are always covered like the torso, buttocks, etc. gives an indication of what damage is occurring. The more fair the skin, the more sensitive it is to the sun’s effect. The second most damaging factor that can well be controlled, is smoking. Smoking produces oxygen-free radicals that are known to accelerate wrinkles. When compared with a non-smoker’s skin, under the microscope, the early visible signs can be seen in smokers as young as 20. Those who quit smoking, even after many years of heavy smoking find their skin improves greatly in tone and complexion. To avoid those early wrinkles and early signs of ageing, do not begin smoking and if you are a smoker, quit.

Q What are the signs of skin aging?

A An evaluation of whether the skin is aging prematurely, as done by a dermatologist, is called a skin age analysis. It is based on two aspects:

I. Texture of the skin: This refers to the presence of:

• Pigmentations which may be dark spots or patches. Basically an uneven, blotchy skin tone.
• WrinkItes: Wrinkles are again classified under two heads:
• Dynamic - The wrinkles that are visible when the facial expression changes, ego when one smiles or frowns, such as crow’s feet at the corners of the eyes, lines on the forehead, etc.
• Static - The wrinkles that show even when the face is at rest.
• Grooves: These are deep folds or lines running from the corner of the nose to . the comer of the mouth, or on the forehead. The cheeks sag and give these marked lines.
• Fine lines: They are a precursor of the deep wrinkles that may form later.
• Sagging skin: Owing to loss of volume and reduced elasticity of the skin, the cheeks droop.
• Blemishes or what doctors call lesions: This refers to the presence of:
• Freckles: These are dark irregular spots, often seen on very fair skin.
• Telangiectasia: This is the technical name for the tiny blood vessels seen through the skin.
• DPN/Seboreic keratosis: The wart like blemishes which are prominent.
• Senile Comodones: These are also known as big black heads which commonly occur around the eyes. The total score under the 2 sections, texture and blemishes, will indicate whether the skin displays signs of premature aging or natural aging. The standard is; for under 30 years the score should be less than 12. If it is not within the acceptable range, it can be treated.

Q Are there any particular types of blemishes that appear with advancing age?

A Besides the blemishes mentioned above, one can observe a few others which are harmless, but do make many women anxious. These are:

IGH: These are tiny white spots that may appear anywhere on the skin. They never grow beyond 0.5 mm in size and are not an indication of leucoderma or any other disease.

Cherry angiomas: Tiny bright red spots that may appear on any part of the body. They too remain tiny, 0.5 to 1 mm in diameter and are not a cause of concern.

Senile purpura: A purplish blood clot which may be seen under the skin, even though there has not been any injury.

Solar elastosis: Pale yellow and thickened skin.

Sailor’s skin or farmer’s skin: As one might guess, it is the obvious sun burnt look which gives a leathery brown complexion to people engaged in these occupations.

Q would you please enumerate some simple steps to care for an aging skin?

A The daily routine of cleansing requires the proper toiletries.

• For the face one should use a gentle face wash as our skin tends to get dry as we get older.
• A non-drying soap is ideal for bathing and the skin should be promptly lubricated after a bath or shower, with a moisturizing body lotion or a drop or two of oil rubbed on the moist skin.
• For an extremely dry skin, the use of lotions or creams containing urea or lactic acid is recommended.
• At night, use an anti-aging cream for the face.
• Sunscreens are essential if one is going outdoors in the day time. The sunscreen should block out both UV A and UVB radiation and have an SPF (Sun protection factor) factor above 15.
• Wearing clothing that cover the arms and sunglasses are a good idea, if one does not want a suntanned look on one’s arms. Cotton is by far the best fabric to choose for a warm climate. Nothing can compensate for a healthy diet and lifestyle:
• Eat a diet with plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits and whole grains. Use of healthy oils like olive oil, benefit the skin. Natural anti-oxidants in the diet are reflected in a glowing/healthy complexion.
• Exercise daily: It keeps the blood flowing and this brings oxygen to the skin, an important ingredient for a healthy skin.
• Quit smoking: Smoking increases wrinkles 5 times more than nonsmokers. Studies show that heavy smokers in their 40’s often have as many or more wrinkles as compared to non-smokers in their 60’s. In addition, the risk for squamous cell cancer is 50% higher than for non-smokers.
• Reduce Stress: It shows on the face.

Q HOW useful are creams / lotions, etc. available in the market in preventing skin from aging fast?
A AS mentioned above, moisturising creams have a definite effect on the skin. Their function is to retain moisture and prevent drying of the skin that gives a dull look.

• Anti-aging creams con taining retinoids and hydroxyl acids (AHA) are quite effective in arresting or partially reversing photo-damage.

Q What treatment can a dermatologist offer to rectify excessive skin damage?

A The term “Skin Rejuvenation” is now applied to most facial rectifying treatments. As the words imply, the objective of these treatments is to give a younger look. They are put under 4 different headings beginning with the letter R:

I. RESURFACE

i. The simplest method is the application of creams, lotions, moisturisers, etc. containing retinoids, A I ph a hydroxy acid (AHA )

compounds and similar substances. The dermatologist can prescribe the correct combination to repair cell damage caused by UV radiation and smoking.

ii. The second method is to use dermatologic procedures such as:

• Microdermabrasion: It involves the use of tiny, rough particles (aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate crystals) which are blown on the skin and vacuumed away using a special piece of equipment. It can reduce the size of the pores, create an even skin tone, smoothen fine lines, among other things.

Chemical peels: As the name implies, it involves peeling the skin with the use & of a chemical solution. When the outer .” layer of skin peels off, over a period of days a new skin forms to take its place. Depending on the skin condition, age of the patient and all other factors the dermatologist will determine the strength of the chemical solution to be used.

• LASER: Laser treatment has many applications in dermatology. It is also used for reduction of wrinkles, lines and age spots by “resurfacing” the skin.
• IPL (Intense Pulse Light): An alternative to laser skin resurfacing is electrosurgical resurfacing. This technique helps improving superficial to moderate skin damage.

II. RELA Botox injections are fairly well known now. It is particularly used to reduce frown lines and crinkles around the eyes. The purified protein derivative known as botox is injected below the skin into a particular facial muscle to relax it. The blocked nerve prevents crinkle or wrinkle lines from forming when the patient frowns or squints, giving a less harsh appearance. The procedure takes about 30 minutes, the effect lasts for 3 to 6 months.

III. REFILL: Fillers or substances resembling collagen are injected into areas such as the lines or folds below the cheek, lines on the forehead to fill up the grooves. The effects last up to 4 to 7 months.

IV. RESUSPEND OR LIFT: It involves using Radiofrequency, a Aptos threads to lift sagging cheeks.

Q What diseases are an aging skin susceptible to, ego cancer? What are the telltale signs?

A Skin cancers are fairly common in the very fair complexioned, white skin types. It is mostly seen in people over 60 years of age and it is linked to long-term damage from the effect of UVB radiation on the skin. 80% of skin cancers occur on the exposed parts of the body, commonly the face, neck, arms, and extremities. The common skin cancers (also known as cutaneous malignancies) are as follows:

Squamous Cell cancer: It is usually seen on the areas exposed to the sun like face, especially the ears, lips, nose, etc. A long-standing, non-healing ulcer, could be an indication. It is seen more in men than in women.

Basal Cell Cancer: It manifests itself as a lump or ulcer, which is slow growing. 65% of the skin cancers occur in people over 40 years of age. This cancer if properly excised (removed surgically) can be cured permanently.

Malignant Melanomas: The signs to look out for are a sudden increase in the size of a mole, or intense itching, bleeding or ulceration of an existing mole. We are fortunate in the complexion we Indians have. Our brown skin weathers the sun much better and wrinkles much slower than the white skin. Skin cancer too is less prevalent.

Tags:  antiaging mature skin skin aging Skin Care

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Entry Filed under: Skin Care